Friday, 8 May 2009
Thursday, 2 April 2009
Just a little note.
Hello to fellow viewers of my blog, this needs drastic updating which will be happening very soon
This video is me trying and testing the zebra mask, to ensure comfort and ease of movement is accomplished.
Please excuse the display of this video, have not had time to adjust as of yet. This video shows actor Daniel Shelly wearing the zebra head, and demonstrating a snug fit, with ease of movement. This fitting was enrolled to ensure that the mask fits, and for the client Faye Young, Tailor and Costumier to ensure the neck line of the costume fully caters for the mask, and fits snugly. This overall fitting was successful with minor adjustments needed.
Below are images of the Actor Daniel Shelly trying on the Costume Produced by Client Faye Young. The costume you see is a draft made in calico
Please excuse the display of this video, have not had time to adjust as of yet. This video shows actor Daniel Shelly wearing the zebra head, and demonstrating a snug fit, with ease of movement. This fitting was enrolled to ensure that the mask fits, and for the client Faye Young, Tailor and Costumier to ensure the neck line of the costume fully caters for the mask, and fits snugly. This overall fitting was successful with minor adjustments needed.
Below are images of the Actor Daniel Shelly trying on the Costume Produced by Client Faye Young. The costume you see is a draft made in calico
What materials did i use
The materials I used to cast the zebra head were:
Easyflo 120
-Which is a “fast setting low viscosity resin that has been specifically designed for slush casting or rotational casting. The resin has "less of a snap cure" enabling it to flow around the mould avoiding the risk of cured lumps on the inside of your casting that when set, can pull your casting out of shape.”
PT Flex 20
-This is a fast curing flexible polyurethane elastomer, which was perfect density to reduplicate the soft texture of a zebra’s nose whilst having enough rigidity.
To added in hessian weave to give the cast more strength.
Materials purchased from Mould life.
Web address: http://www.mouldlife.co.uk/
Easyflo 120
-Which is a “fast setting low viscosity resin that has been specifically designed for slush casting or rotational casting. The resin has "less of a snap cure" enabling it to flow around the mould avoiding the risk of cured lumps on the inside of your casting that when set, can pull your casting out of shape.”
PT Flex 20
-This is a fast curing flexible polyurethane elastomer, which was perfect density to reduplicate the soft texture of a zebra’s nose whilst having enough rigidity.
To added in hessian weave to give the cast more strength.
Materials purchased from Mould life.
Web address: http://www.mouldlife.co.uk/
Monday, 9 March 2009
Zebra armature
After taking a head cast of my model I tried to vacuum form the head to give my self a shell to work with, as the vacuum forming machine was not big enough to take a full form i worked around this by tilting the head on a angle and vacuum formed as much as I could. Then I heat bend strips of plastic to get a good impression. This did not work as accurately as I intended. I used an alternative method of taking a cast made out of a thin layer of Mod Rock. This worked efficiently and allowed me to attach to the zebra armature.
Sunday, 8 March 2009
Taking head cast of model
As I intend on making my mask fit a model, it was necessary to take a mould of his head to ensure I can access it easily for measurements and also take a mould to work with and integrate in to my armature to ensure a snug and accurately fit.
Below is the step by step process I followed, to create the plaster head cast whilst ensuring the models safety at all times.
The instructions I followed are sourced from: http://www.fxsupply.com/life_casting/casting.html
Preparation and Setup Suggestions:
Prepare your work area and model before starting; cut about 4' off the long end of the drop cloth and cover the model, secure the remaining portion to the floor if needed. Use two small tables for materials: DRY TABLE) Precut plaster bandages, alginate stock, things you don't want to become contaminated. WET TABLE) Buckets and water for plaster and a place to dip plaster bandages. Locate the 5 gal. bucket filled 3/4 with warm water in an accessible area. Use this bucket for water source and cleanup.
*Cut the plaster bandages into strips of various lengths ranging from 24" to 4". It takes about 1 full roll to do one face. Lay these out in advance. Dipping and Application is easier if each bandage is folded in half.
*Prepare the model mentally, including a developing a means of communication using gestures or hand signals. Make sure the model can tolerate being enclosed in materials for the given amount of time.
*Apply the bald cap using medical adhesive and tape.
*Apply Vaseline over the hair to ease removal of alginate.
*The model should assume the position of the finished piece, i.e. upright, laying down, head tilted, etc.
Alginate Application:
Use cold tap water (hard water not softened) to mix the alginate to the consistency of thick pudding. 1/3 lbs. alginate will do a face (no neck or ears). When alginate becomes smooth quickly apply to the face starting with over-hangs, such as under the chin and under the eyebrows. For details in the lips have the model open their lips slightly and close them again. Have the model assume a relaxed and neutral position if required. AT ALL TIMES: Keep air passages open around the nostrils! For this part I enrolled the help of a friend to constantly keep an eye on the nostril area continuously
Use the stirring sticks and ear swabs to gently work alginate around the nostrils. Generally keep the alginate about 3/8" thick in all mold areas especially the nostrils. Periodically check with the model to make sure they are comfortable. In about 5 to 8 minutes the alginate will start to become rubbery. It is now time to apply plaster bandages.
Plaster Bandage Application:
Hold both ends of the plaster bandage and dip into the warm water, don't let go of the ends until you place them on the face. Force your hands together to wring all excess water out of the bandage. Apply immediately, starting with large supported areas first such as forehead and cheeks. Work down to smaller and smaller bandages. Make sure the nose is well supported while keeping the nostrils open. Use the ear swabs when necessary to keep water and debris out of the air passages.
While you are waiting for the bandages to harden, use the ear swabs to gently clean areas around the outside of the mask. Use the swabs to separate plaster bandages from the skin, separate the hair from drying alginate and generally break the outside border of the alginate. These are all places which might tear during removal of the mask.
Mold Removal:
To remove the mask, have the model bend over and gently wiggle the face inside the mask. Gravity and patience will help the mask drop free from the model's face. Don't force anything, especially alginate in hairy areas. Alginate will successfully pull off hair of any length if given time and patience.
Mold Preparation and Casting:
Prepare the mold for plaster by using the clay to sculpt little plugs to plug the inside of the nostrils. You can use binder clips or denture adhesive to secure the alginate inside the plaster bandage shell. Make sure the alginate "sets" well inside the mold before casting with UltraCal 30.
Mix a small amount of UltraCal 30 and gently brush it into the alginate. This is your detail coat. You can now follow with thicker layers of UltraCal 30 until you have a casting the thickness you desire.
PLEASE NOTE: UltraCal 30 is the industry standard for heat-resistant, non-shrinking positives that are used for special make-up effects. Clean all buckets and tools in the source bucket and allow solids to settle before discarding the water. Place hardened plaster solids in a trash can.
PLEASE NOTE: You should cast the positive soon after taking the alginate mold because alginate will shrink as moisture evaporates out of it. Usually you will get at least one good casting from the mold before it breaks or tears. Experienced Life-casters will get several "pulls" before the mold deteriorates.
Below is the step by step progress picture with follow the above instructions.
Below is the step by step process I followed, to create the plaster head cast whilst ensuring the models safety at all times.
The instructions I followed are sourced from: http://www.fxsupply.com/life_casting/casting.html
Preparation and Setup Suggestions:
Prepare your work area and model before starting; cut about 4' off the long end of the drop cloth and cover the model, secure the remaining portion to the floor if needed. Use two small tables for materials: DRY TABLE) Precut plaster bandages, alginate stock, things you don't want to become contaminated. WET TABLE) Buckets and water for plaster and a place to dip plaster bandages. Locate the 5 gal. bucket filled 3/4 with warm water in an accessible area. Use this bucket for water source and cleanup.
*Cut the plaster bandages into strips of various lengths ranging from 24" to 4". It takes about 1 full roll to do one face. Lay these out in advance. Dipping and Application is easier if each bandage is folded in half.
*Prepare the model mentally, including a developing a means of communication using gestures or hand signals. Make sure the model can tolerate being enclosed in materials for the given amount of time.
*Apply the bald cap using medical adhesive and tape.
*Apply Vaseline over the hair to ease removal of alginate.
*The model should assume the position of the finished piece, i.e. upright, laying down, head tilted, etc.
Alginate Application:
Use cold tap water (hard water not softened) to mix the alginate to the consistency of thick pudding. 1/3 lbs. alginate will do a face (no neck or ears). When alginate becomes smooth quickly apply to the face starting with over-hangs, such as under the chin and under the eyebrows. For details in the lips have the model open their lips slightly and close them again. Have the model assume a relaxed and neutral position if required. AT ALL TIMES: Keep air passages open around the nostrils! For this part I enrolled the help of a friend to constantly keep an eye on the nostril area continuously
Use the stirring sticks and ear swabs to gently work alginate around the nostrils. Generally keep the alginate about 3/8" thick in all mold areas especially the nostrils. Periodically check with the model to make sure they are comfortable. In about 5 to 8 minutes the alginate will start to become rubbery. It is now time to apply plaster bandages.
Plaster Bandage Application:
Hold both ends of the plaster bandage and dip into the warm water, don't let go of the ends until you place them on the face. Force your hands together to wring all excess water out of the bandage. Apply immediately, starting with large supported areas first such as forehead and cheeks. Work down to smaller and smaller bandages. Make sure the nose is well supported while keeping the nostrils open. Use the ear swabs when necessary to keep water and debris out of the air passages.
While you are waiting for the bandages to harden, use the ear swabs to gently clean areas around the outside of the mask. Use the swabs to separate plaster bandages from the skin, separate the hair from drying alginate and generally break the outside border of the alginate. These are all places which might tear during removal of the mask.
Mold Removal:
To remove the mask, have the model bend over and gently wiggle the face inside the mask. Gravity and patience will help the mask drop free from the model's face. Don't force anything, especially alginate in hairy areas. Alginate will successfully pull off hair of any length if given time and patience.
Mold Preparation and Casting:
Prepare the mold for plaster by using the clay to sculpt little plugs to plug the inside of the nostrils. You can use binder clips or denture adhesive to secure the alginate inside the plaster bandage shell. Make sure the alginate "sets" well inside the mold before casting with UltraCal 30.
Mix a small amount of UltraCal 30 and gently brush it into the alginate. This is your detail coat. You can now follow with thicker layers of UltraCal 30 until you have a casting the thickness you desire.
PLEASE NOTE: UltraCal 30 is the industry standard for heat-resistant, non-shrinking positives that are used for special make-up effects. Clean all buckets and tools in the source bucket and allow solids to settle before discarding the water. Place hardened plaster solids in a trash can.
PLEASE NOTE: You should cast the positive soon after taking the alginate mold because alginate will shrink as moisture evaporates out of it. Usually you will get at least one good casting from the mold before it breaks or tears. Experienced Life-casters will get several "pulls" before the mold deteriorates.
Below is the step by step progress picture with follow the above instructions.
Monday, 26 January 2009
Flocking Testers
Achieving the best striped fur effect:
1.Flocking completely in white a and air brush on stripes
2.Flock over painted surface using translucent fur over, allowing stripes to show through
3.Flock black and white separately: will be extremely difficult.
Here I have experimented using the technique flocking. From this experiment I found out that the black stripes are still quite visible under a white flock, and to exaggerate them I could air brush over.
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